Sunday, December 1, 2019

Ethical Shopping for Clothes: Are you ready?

A couple of weeks ago I was travelling with friends. We were hungry and wanted to get a quick bite to eat. Doing our bit for the planet, we walked out of a couple places that served food in styrofoam, in search of a more biodegradable option. In this day and age, I think we can all agree that styrofoam is a no-no.

But when it comes to shopping for clothes, I think it's a little easier to ignore our principles in favour of buying that shiny new thing that feels soft and looks so cool. But often, it's the clothing equivalent of the styrofoam container.

The statistics of how much clothing ends up in landfill are actually STAGGERING. When you buy that cheap top that looks adorable and chic in the shop but isn't going to last the year because it's made of textiles that are going to look pilly, misshapen, and falling apart at the seams, you probably won't, in good conscience, be able to donate it to charity when it starts to look like crap. So it ends up in the bin where it won't break down. Like styrofoam.

There are two considerations when it comes to clothes: ethics and sustainability. Often, a brand or a line within a brand is 'sustainable' but isn't ethically made. In other words, it might be made of an organic or recycled textile, but it's manufactured by people working in awful conditions. And in some cases, it could be the other way around (though far less often). Read more about the different considerations around the fashion industry from the Clean Clothes Campaign: poverty wages, unsafe working conditions, lack of job security, workers rights violations, union busting, lack of supply chain transparency, waste and pollution, fake claims of ethics and sustainability, gender discrimination, and exploitation of migrants. It's a pretty big list when you think about what goes into even a simple piece of clothing.

Obviously, buying second-hand clothes is a great option, but these days it's harder and harder to find cool, good quality stuff in charity shops because they're filled with disposable clothes that don't cost much less than buying new disposable clothes. And to be honest, I used to be a thrift shop junky and now there just aren't enough antihistamines or hours in a day for me to want to do the work of finding the charity shop gems.

I've been trying to weed out the low quality garments in my wardrobe and gradually replace them with pieces that I feel great about wearing in every aspect: style, quality, textile, and manufacture. Sometimes it means spending a little more, but often it just means waiting for a sale! I put myself on the mailing lists of my favourite brands, and then hit up the Clearance Sales.

Admittedly, shopping ethical brands is easier in larger countries like the United States, where there has been an explosion of ethical and sustainable fashion. Shopping ethically from Ireland often means paying for shipping and not being able to try things on in a shop before buying. But once you become familiar with a certain brand, you will have a better idea of their fit and can make more educated decisions about sizing.

Here are my top tips for buying more ethical clothing:
1. Avoid acrylic and inspect the textile. This is actually SO HARD because acrylic is in so many lovely wool products. I can't tell you how often I fall in love with a jumper only to look at the fiber content and see that it contains acrylic or nylon. Acrylic just doesn't last. It gets super pilly and will start to look ratty after just one wash. For this reason, I try to go for 100% wool or cotton, or a wool/cotton blend.

Rayon, Viscose, Lyocell, and Modal are usually safe bets, however. These are manufactured textiles that come from natural sources and will stand up to wash and wear as long as you follow the washing instructions carefully.

Remember that even if a super inexpensive garment is 100% cotton, it may still be cheaply made and not wear very well. Give it a thorough inspection before buying.

2. Don't take a 'Sustainable' label at face value. Lots of big retailers like H&M, Marks & Spencers, and Zara have sustainable lines. But often, as I mentioned, they aren't made ethically. For example, researchers recently decided to follow the supply chain of a Zara hoodie that was part of a Sustainable line and discovered that it was being made in Turkey by workers whose pay would need to be nearly doubled in order for it to be a living wage.

3. Take the time to research. It's definitely a pain. Even in Ireland in shops like Kilkenny Design that claim to only sell "Irish design" -- when you actually look at the tags, you'll find that very few pieces, if any, are made in Ireland. But this is the beauty of the internet! If you go to a company's website and they aren't promoting the conditions under which their clothes are made, that is one red flag. But there are tonnes of watchdog sites that will tell you if a company is worth giving your money to. You can follow the Clean Clothes Campaign on facebook for the latest news on ethics violations of big brands. The Business and Human Rights Resource Centre has a company index so you can see every article they have about a particular brand's human rights violations. The Public Eye is a Swiss organisation that researches all kinds of shady dealings and is definitely another one to follow.

Companies like Everlane have tonnes of information about where and how their clothes are made, which is amazing. For example, on their website you can read about how their denim is made and see photographs of the factory.

4. Follow groups who curate ethical and sustainable brands. There are lots of people doing research out there, so you don't have to. In fact, all you have to do is google 'ethical brands' and you'll find list after list of places to buy beautiful and ethical clothes. Websites like Good on You, The Good Trade, and The Minimalist Vegan are just a couple of ones to follow. Pinterest is another fantastic resource! And of course, Etsy is filled with handmade and ethical items.

Here is a list of brands I buy regularly and have been very happy with. Tell me about ethical brands you love to support!
Thought Clothing
Seasalt Cornwall
Everlane (from the US, so customs charges may apply, but I think they're worth it)
Finisterre
Beaumont Organic